Joints that are sandy or hollow
If you can scrape mortar out with a key or you find sand in the gutters, the joints have worn down and water is getting into the chimney wherever the mortar is gone.
Crumbling joints, loose brick or a water stain by the fireplace? We repair the mortar and the roof seal so your chimney sheds water again.

Chimney repair in Little Rock means replacing worn mortar, swapping out broken brick and sealing where the chimney meets the roof, so water stops working its way into the masonry and into your house.
Most calls start with something you can see from the yard or the attic: sand in the gutters, joints that look hollow, a stain on the ceiling beside the fireplace. What moves the price is how much of the chimney is worn, how tall it is and how hard it is to reach from the roof, whether brick has to come out, and whether the flashing needs redoing. The schedule mostly turns on the weather, since mortar work wants dry days, and on whether a permit or an inspection has to come first.
Your own number comes from the estimate, where I look at the chimney in person and write up what we'd do and why. We're fully licensed and insured, and on a big job it's fair to ask which state home improvement license a contractor holds, because the Limited one covers residential projects under $50,000 in labor and material and the Unlimited one covers any size.
New mortar should look and behave like what's already in your chimney. I match color, texture and hardness to your brick so the repair works with the old masonry instead of fighting it.
I'm the one who comes out to look at your chimney, and I'm up there working alongside the crew, so nothing gets lost between what we talked about and what gets done.
Satisfaction guaranteed. Before we pack up, I walk you around the chimney and point out the new joints and flashing, so you're judging finished work you've actually seen.
A chimney repair doesn't stop at the mortar for us. We look at where the chimney meets the roof too, because a leak there soaks the brick and can undo good brickwork. A chimney that passes through a roof needs two layers of flashing, a base piece tucked under the shingles and a counter piece set into the brick joints that laps down over it, so we check both and redo them when they've pulled loose or worn through.
On the masonry itself, we rake out the worn mortar until we reach sound material and pack the joints with new mortar, the same tuckpointing we do on brick walls, matched to the age and color of your house. Brick that's cracked or flaking gets cut out and replaced with the closest match we can find, which is the same brick repair we do lower down, just on the roof.
We also look at the gutters and downspouts near the chimney, since water from a leaking downspout can wash mortar right out of the joints. If that's going on, the downspout has to be fixed too, or the new joints end up taking the same beating.
If you can scrape mortar out with a key or you find sand in the gutters, the joints have worn down and water is getting into the chimney wherever the mortar is gone.
Brick that cracks or sheds its face, which masons call spalling, usually has water getting into it. We replace those bricks and fix whatever is letting the water in.
A stain on the ceiling or wall beside the chimney usually points to the roof line, where the flashing has pulled away or the joints holding it have opened up.
The top courses of a chimney take the most weather, so loose or rocking brick up there is worth fixing before pieces start landing on your roof or in the yard.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time. I come out, look at your chimney in person and write up what we'd do and why, with no obligation to book.
The estimate costs you nothing and happens at your property, because I can't judge mortar or flashing from a phone call. There's no pressure to book afterward.
Each item on the write-up says why it's there, and I'm happy to explain any of it twice so you know exactly what you're agreeing to before you sign.
If a section of joints still has life left in it, I'll say so. You can fix the urgent parts now and plan the rest for when it suits you.
These photos show mortar colors, joint styles, brick matches and flashing details you can point to when we talk about your chimney.
Here are the questions I hear most about chimney mortar, cost, inspections, permits and historic houses in Little Rock.
Tuckpointing, also called repointing, means removing the worn mortar from the joints and replacing it with new mortar. Chimney masonry wears out mostly at those joints, so tuckpointing is usually the main part of a chimney repair, and it brings back the seal that keeps water out of the brick.
Chimney tuckpointing across the US usually costs about $500 to $2,500 per job. That's a national range for the repointing, not our price. Where your job lands depends on how much of the chimney is worn and how hard it is to reach, and our estimate at your house is free.
Lime mortar is a good choice for an older or historic chimney, because it's soft, porous and changes little in volume as temperatures swing. Straight portland cement mortar is extremely hard and shrinks as it sets. Ask any mason which mortar they plan to use, and I'll tell you mine before we start.
Industry guidance recommends a Level 2 inspection when a home is sold, before a chimney is relined, or after a chimney fire, storm or malfunction likely to have caused damage. It checks whether the chimney is fit for continued use and includes a video scan or similar look inside. If one of those applies, plan it before the masonry work.
Whether your repair needs a permit depends on the work, so ask the city's Building Permit Desk at (501) 371-4832 or Permits@littlerock.gov. That desk handles building permits for homes inside city limits, since the city no longer has planning or regulatory authority outside them. We check with whichever office covers your address and apply for the permit when one is needed.
Yes, if your house is in a historic district. Little Rock's Historic District Commission protects structures of historic and architectural significance, and the city posts the commission's applications, guidelines and deadlines, so read through them while you plan. On those houses, matching the original mortar and brick is the part of the job I care about most.
Call (501) 274-1083 or use the form, and include photos of the joints and the roof line so I know what to look for.